Roof Replacement Process: What to Expect, Step by Step

By the Orlando Roof Inspection team · Updated November 2026 · 9 min read

A full roof replacement runs through the same basic flow every time: the old roof comes off, the deck gets checked and repaired, and a new water-shedding system goes back on from the edges up. For most homes, the actual install takes one to three days, depending on the size of the roof, the material, and the weather. This guide walks the roof replacement process step by step so you know exactly what to expect, what happens each day, and how to get your home ready.

How long does a roof replacement take?

Most standard asphalt shingle roofs on an average-sized home are torn off and re-covered in one to two days, and up to three for a larger or more complex roof. The full project, counting the estimate, permit, and material delivery that happen before the crew arrives, can stretch over one to two weeks.

Weather is the usual reason a job runs long. Rain stops work because shingles and underlayment should not be installed on a wet deck, so a storm can push a two-day job to the back of the week. Material also matters a lot. Standing seam metal, concrete tile, and slate are slower to install than asphalt and can run several days to more than a week. Here is how the stages typically lay out for a standard shingle roof.

Step 1: Estimate, inspection, and signed contract

The process starts with a roofer inspecting your roof and writing an estimate, not with hammers. A good contractor measures the roof, checks the deck and attic where they can, and hands you an itemized bid that lists squares, tear-off, underlayment, flashing, permits, and disposal so you can compare bids line by line.

This is the stage to confirm you actually need a full replacement rather than a repair, which an independent inspection can settle. It is also where you review the contract, the material and color, the payment schedule, and the warranty terms before you sign. Getting at least three itemized bids and reading our guide on how to choose a roofing contractor protects you here. If you are weighing whether it is time at all, see the signs you need a new roof, and for budgeting, our roof replacement cost guide.

Step 2: Permits and material delivery

Before any roofing goes on, the contractor pulls the required building permit and schedules the delivery of materials. Reroofing almost always needs a permit, and the roofer normally handles it as part of the job, which is one reason the start date can be a week or two out.

A day or so before work begins, a truck drops the shingles, underlayment, flashing, nails, and a dumpster for the old roofing. Expect the dumpster and sometimes a material pallet to sit in or near your driveway. This Old House suggests asking the delivery driver to put wood blocks under a heavy container's wheels so it does not dent the driveway, per its roof replacement guide.

Step 3: Protecting your property

On the morning of the job, the crew spends time protecting your home before a single shingle comes off. Tear-off is messy, and nails, old shingles, and debris fall everywhere, so the team lays tarps and plywood against the siding, over landscaping, and across walkways.

This Old House recommends moving outdoor furniture and covering valuable plants before work begins, and parking your cars out of the driveway and away from the house. Shrubs and flower beds directly under the eaves take the most abuse, so point those out to the crew. Inside, vibration from the roof can shake walls, so it is smart to take down mirrors and wall hangings and cover anything stored in the attic.

Step 4: Tear-off of the old roof

Tear-off is the stage where the crew strips the old roofing down to the wood deck. Fine Homebuilding shows crews starting at the ridge, removing the ridge cap and the first few courses, then ripping shingles downward so gravity helps and footing stays clear, as described in its roof-stripping guide.

Old shingles, felt, and flashing all come off. The crew then makes a pass to remove or drive down any nails left proud of the sheathing, because a nail sticking up will tear a hole in a new shingle. Most codes allow a roof to be covered over only once, so a roof already on its second layer must be fully stripped. This is the loudest and dustiest part of the job.

Step 5: Deck inspection and repair

Once the deck is bare, the roofer inspects the wood sheathing for rot and damage that were hidden under the old roof. Soft, water-stained, or delaminated boards get cut out and replaced so the new roof has solid wood to fasten to.

Fine Homebuilding notes the rule of thumb that as long as a board holds a nail it can usually stay, but damaged sections are cut back to the rafters and patched with new sheathing. Decking repairs are the one cost no one can quote precisely up front, since nobody sees the wood until the old roof is off. If the crew finds widespread rot, expect a change order before they continue.

Step 6: Underlayment, drip edge, and flashing

With a sound deck, the crew builds the water barrier from the edges up: drip edge, underlayment, and flashing. These layers, not the shingles alone, are what keep water out at the vulnerable spots.

Drip edge, the angled metal at the eaves and rakes, is installed so water drips clear of the fascia instead of wicking back against it. Along the eaves, and in valleys and around penetrations, crews apply a self-adhering ice-and-water membrane. This Old House notes the International Residential Code sets a 24-inch minimum past the inside wall line, and many installers go to 36 inches, in its drip edge and flashing guide. Synthetic or felt underlayment then covers the rest of the deck, each course overlapping the one below. Finally, new metal flashing is set where the roof meets chimneys, walls, skylights, and vents, which is where many leaks start. Our roof flashing guide covers these details.

Step 7: New roofing and ridge vent

Now the visible roof goes on. The crew sets a starter course along the eaves, then installs the field shingles course by course from the bottom up, overlapping each row so water always runs onto the course below.

At the peak, roofers cut a slot and install a continuous ridge vent, which lets hot, moist air escape the attic and pairs with intake vents at the soffits. Ridge cap shingles then cap the vent and the hips for a finished look. If your roof cannot take a ridge vent, the contractor may use other roof or gable vents instead. This is also the stage where a metal or tile roof differs most from shingles, which is worth knowing if you are comparing a metal roof versus shingles.

Step 8: Cleanup, final inspection, and warranty

The last stage is cleanup, a final quality check, and your paperwork. The crew blows off the roof and gutters, hauls away the old roofing, and runs a magnetic sweeper across the lawn, flower beds, and driveway to pick up stray nails, which This Old House specifically recommends you ask for.

A good contractor, or in many areas a municipal inspector, then does a final inspection to confirm the install meets code and manufacturer specs. You should receive your warranty documents at this point. This Old House notes a new roof usually carries two warranties: a manufacturer warranty on the materials and a workmanship warranty from the installer. Keep both, note what could void them, and ask whether the manufacturer warranty transfers if you sell the home. Our roof warranty guide explains the difference, and you can review what a documented inspection includes on our roof inspection cost page.

What should you do to prepare?

Your main jobs as the homeowner are to clear the way and plan around the noise. Move both cars out of the driveway and onto the street the night before, since the crew needs driveway space and you do not want falling debris near your vehicles.

Plan for a loud day. Tear-off and nailing are constant hammering and thudding for hours, so it is a good day to work elsewhere if you can. The vibration carries indoors, so take down loose wall items and cover anything valuable in the attic. Keep pets inside in a quiet room, or board them for the day, because the noise stresses animals and open gates and nail debris are a real hazard. Keep kids away from the yard and driveway while crews are working, since dropped tools and nails are common. Let the crew know where an outdoor outlet and a hose are, and make sure they can reach the yard gate.